Austria is a country of extraordinary wine heritage, often underestimated compared to other European viticultural giants such as France and Italy. However, anyone who explores the world of Austrian wines will discover a legacy of millennia-old tradition, unique indigenous grape varieties, sustainable production methods, and a quality that is increasingly recognized on an international level.
Despite being a small wine-producing country in terms of volume, Austria has managed to build a strong and distinct wine identity. Its diverse geography, with vineyards stretching along the Danube and across the rolling hills bordering Hungary, Slovenia, and Germany, offers an incredibly varied range of terroirs. From the fresh, mineral-driven whites of Wachau to the elegant, spicy reds of Burgenland, and the noble sweet wines produced around Neusiedlersee, Austria is a land of surprising and refined wines.
Despite its ancient roots—viticulture in Austria dates back to Roman times and has been shaped by centuries of monastic and imperial influence—the country has faced significant challenges. One of the most dramatic was the 1985 diethylene glycol scandal, which severely damaged the global reputation of Austrian wines. However, this crisis led to the creation of one of the strictest wine regulations in the world, transforming Austria into a benchmark for quality and excellence.
Today, Austrian wines are highly appreciated by connoisseurs worldwide for their purity, freshness, and ability to reflect terroir. This article is designed for those who wish to study and deepen their knowledge of Austrian viticulture, exploring its wine regions, key grape varieties, winemaking techniques, and regulations.
Get ready for a journey into the heart of Austrian wine culture! 🍷
Main Wine Regions
Austria boasts several wine regions, each with unique characteristics that influence the organoleptic profile of the wines produced. Here is an overview of the most important ones:
- Wien (Vienna): Austria’s capital is the only city in the world with significant urban wine production. The Gemischter Satz, a wine made from multiple grape varieties grown and vinified together, is the region’s flagship wine.
- Niederösterreich (Lower Austria): This is the country’s largest wine region, located in the northeast along the Danube River. It includes renowned subregions such as Wachau, Kamptal, and Kremstal, famous for producing high-quality white wines, particularly Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
- Burgenland: Located in the east, on the border with Hungary, this region is renowned for its bold red wines, such as Blaufränkisch and Zweigelt, as well as its sweet wines, including Ruster Ausbruch and Beerenauslese.
- Steiermark (Styria): Located in the southeast of the country, Styria is known for its aromatic white wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Muskateller, and Morillon (Chardonnay).
Native and International Grape Varieties
Austria cultivates a wide range of grape varieties, combining native and international varietals. Here are some of the most important ones:
- Grüner Veltliner: This is Austria’s most widely planted and representative white grape variety. It produces fresh wineswith notes of white pepper, green apple, and bright acidity.
- Riesling: Known for its ability to express terroir, Austrian Riesling produces elegant, mineral-driven, and long-lived wines.
- Blaufränkisch: A red grape variety that produces structured wines with notes of berries and spices, offering good aging potential.
- Zweigelt: A cross between Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent, it is Austria’s most widely planted red grape variety, known for its fruity and versatile wines.
- Sauvignon Blanc: Particularly common in Styria, this variety produces aromatic wines with herbaceous notes and tropical fruit flavors.
Austrian Wine Laws: A Model of Strictness and Quality
Austria is now considered a model of wine regulation, thanks to one of the strictest legal frameworks in the world. This system not only ensures high-quality standards but also guarantees a clear identification of the origin and style of the wines produced in the country.
The structure of Austrian wine law is the result of a long and complex evolution, influenced by various traditions—from the Germanic system to the origin-based classification typical of Romanic systems. However, the most significant transformation came with the reforms implemented after the 1985 diethylene glycol scandal.
Structure of Austrian Wine Legislation
As a member of the European Union, Austria follows the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) and PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) terminology to define the quality levels and origin of its wines. However, the country has also developed its own national system, with further classifications and specific regulations.
The main categories of Austrian wine are:
- Wein (Wine without Geographical Indication):
- The most basic category, with no reference to a specific production region.
- Grapes can come from anywhere in Austria.
- No restrictions on grape varieties or winemaking styles.
- Landwein (Wine with Protected Geographical Indication – PGI):
- Represents regional wines with some typicity linked to the territory.
- Austria recognizes three PGI zones:
- Weinland Österreich (Niederösterreich, Burgenland, Wien)
- Steirerland (Styria)
- Bergland Österreich (mountainous regions with limited viticulture)
- Production must follow specific regulations regarding grape varieties, styles, and winemaking methods.
- Qualitätswein (Quality Wine with Protected Designation of Origin – PDO):
- The main category of Austrian wines, accounting for over 90% of total production.
- Grapes must come exclusively from one of Austria’s 16 recognized wine regions.
- Wines must pass a government inspection, including chemical and organoleptic analysis, to ensure quality standards. Each bottle receives an official approval number (Staatsprüfnummer) as proof of certification.
- Austrian quality seal: Qualitätswein bottles feature a red and white cap or a label with the Austrian flag to certify authenticity.
The Prädikatswein System: The Classification of Sweet Wines
Austria uses a classification system similar to Germany’s for sweet wines, based on the ripeness of the grapes at harvest. However, unlike Germany, Austria restricts these designations exclusively to sweet wines—dry wines fall under the DAC system instead.
The categories of Prädikatswein are:
- Spätlese (Late Harvest) → Grapes harvested at full ripeness.
- Auslese (Selection of Ripe Grapes) → Only the healthiest and ripest grape bunches are selected for winemaking.
- Beerenauslese (BA) → Grapes affected by noble rot (Botrytis cinerea), which enhances sweetness and complexity.
- Eiswein → Wine made from naturally frozen grapes on the vine, resulting in a very high sugar concentration.
- Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA) → The ultimate expression of Austrian sweet wines, made from grapes completely shriveled by noble rot, resulting in exceptional concentration and complexity.
An interesting exception is Ruster Ausbruch, a specific designation for sweet wines from the town of Rust, near Lake Neusiedlersee. In terms of sweetness and concentration, it falls between Beerenauslese and Trockenbeerenauslese.
DAC – The Austrian Controlled Designation of Origin System
In 2002, Austria introduced the Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) system, similar to the French AOC or Italian DOCG classifications. This system aims to preserve regional typicity, allowing only specific grape varieties and winemaking styles for each designation.
Currently, the 16 recognized DAC regions are:
- Weinviertel DAC (first DAC recognized, 2003) – Exclusively for Grüner Veltliner.
- Mittelburgenland DAC – Specializes in Blaufränkisch.
- Kamptal DAC, Kremstal DAC, Traisental DAC – Focus on Riesling and Grüner Veltliner.
- Leithaberg DAC – Produces both white wines (Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder) and red wines(Blaufränkisch).
- Neusiedlersee DAC – Red wines based on Zweigelt.
- Eisenberg DAC – Blaufränkisch, a mineral expression from the southern part of Burgenland.
- Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC – The only DAC for wines made from mixed grapes (field blend).
- Rosalia DAC – For Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch in rosé style.
- Carnuntum DAC – For red wines based on Zweigelt and Blaufränkisch.
- Ruster Ausbruch DAC – Exclusive for sweet wines made from noble rot (botrytis) in Rust.
- Steiermark DAC – Includes three subregions for white wines.
- Vulkanland Steiermark DAC, Südsteiermark DAC, Weststeiermark DAC – Focused on Sauvignon Blanc, Welschriesling, and other local grape varieties.
- Wachau DAC (since 2020) – Maintains the traditional classifications Steinfeder, Federspiel, Smaragd to distinguish the levels of body and concentration in white wines.
Quality Hierarchy in the DAC System
Each DAC can be divided into three quality levels, based on the Burgundian concept of territorial classification:
- Gebietswein → Regional wine.
- Ortswein → Village wine from a specific village.
- Riedenwein → Single vineyard wine (Ried).
The 1985 Diethylene Glycol Scandal
In 1985, the Austrian wine industry was shaken by a scandal that severely damaged its international reputation. Some producers were discovered to be adulterating their wines with diethylene glycol, a toxic chemical found in certain types of antifreeze. This substance was used to enhance sweetness and body, simulating the quality of late-harvest wines (Prädikatswein).
How was the scandal discovered?
The discovery happened by chance when German laboratories, during routine quality control checks, found traces of diethylene glycol in Austrian wines imported to West Germany. The news spread quickly, leading to an immediate recall of the contaminated wines from the market.
Immediate Consequences
The immediate consequences were severe:
- Export decline: Austrian wine exports plummeted from nearly 30 million liters in 1985 to less than 5 million liters in 1986.
- Enormous economic damage: Austrian wines were banned from numerous international markets.
- Destruction of stock: The government ordered the destruction of the contaminated batches, resulting in the loss of millions of liters of wine.
- Arrests and penalties: Several producers were arrested, and wine regulations were rewritten to prevent similar frauds in the future.
The Turning Point: The Rebirth of Austrian Quality
Paradoxically, the scandal turned into an opportunity for Austria. In 1986, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board (AWMB) was established, an organization dedicated to promoting wine quality. Wine laws became some of the strictest in the world, enforcing rigorous controls and traceability across the entire production chain.
Today, the Austrian wine sector has completely rebuilt its reputation, becoming a benchmark for the production of high-quality wines. Exports have surpassed 53 million liters, while the economic value of Austrian wine has tripled compared to the pre-scandal period, proving that the crisis led to a wine renaissance.
Austria turned a dramatic event into a success story, solidifying its image as a producer of authentic, clean, and high-quality wines.
The Characteristics of the Austrian Climate and Terroir
Austria enjoys a cool continental climate, characterized by hot summers and cold winters, with significant temperature fluctuations that help enhance the aromatic development of the grapes. However, there are notable climatic variations between the different wine regions:
- North (Weinviertel) → Influenced by cool northern winds, with lower temperatures and wines that are fresher and more mineral-driven.
- South (Steiermark) → Stronger influence from the Adriatic climate, with milder temperatures that favor the production of aromatic white wines and soft red wines.
- East (Burgenland) → Warmer and drier climate, influenced by the Pannonian plain, making it ideal for the production of red wines and sweet wines.
- West (Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal) → Vineyards along the Danube River, with terraced soils and cool breezes from the Alps that contribute to the finesse and longevity of the wines.
The soils vary from sandy and calcareous soils to areas with loess and volcanic substrates, creating optimal conditions for the cultivation of different grape varieties.
Vineyard Management and Winemaking Techniques
In the 1980s, Austrian viticulture was dominated by the Lenz Moser training system, which allowed for high yields and simplified vineyard management. However, with a growing focus on quality, this system has largely been replaced by methods such as Guyot and Vertical Shoot Positioning (VSP), which enable more precise vine management and better control over grape ripening.
Harvesting Methods
- Manual Harvesting → Used in terraced vineyards (Wachau, Kremstal, Kamptal), where mechanical operations are impossible.
- Mechanical Harvesting → More common in flat areas (Weinviertel, Burgenland).
Winemaking
The Austrian winemaking approach prioritizes freshness and varietal expression. For white wines, malolactic fermentation and the use of new oak are generally avoided to preserve the purity of the fruit and acidity. For red wines, fermentation in open vats with longer maceration is common, while some producers use new barriques to add structure and complexity.
Austrian Wines and Food Pairings
Austria offers a range of wines that pair wonderfully with both international cuisine and traditional Italian dishes. Their versatility and distinctive flavors make them an excellent choice for a variety of food pairings, whether you’re enjoying a classic pasta dish, seafood, or a sophisticated cheese platter.
- Grüner Veltliner → Excellent with fish dishes, grilled vegetables, sushi, and spicy Asian cuisine.
- Riesling → Perfect with shellfish, smoked dishes, and blue cheeses.
- Zweigelt → Pairs well with white meat dishes, roast duck, and Mediterranean cuisine.
- Blaufränkisch → Ideal with game, braised dishes, and aged cheeses.
- Beerenauslese / Trockenbeerenauslese → Perfect with foie gras, cream-based desserts, and fruit-based desserts.
Exclusive Tasting in Empoli: Discover Austrian Wines with Wine School Italia
For those looking to deepen their knowledge of Austrian wines, Wine School Italia is hosting an exclusive tasting in Empoli, where you can taste some of the finest expressions of Austrian winemaking. This event will give you the opportunity to explore a selection of Austria’s best wines, guided by experts who will help you understand the unique characteristics and terroirs behind each bottle.
During the evening, we will taste Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Blaufränkisch, and Zweigelt, along with a rare Eiswein, and I will personally guide you through the characteristics of each wine, the winemaking techniques, and the unique features of Austrian terroirs.
📅 Date: April 17, 2025
📍 Location: Circolo Avis, Empoli
🎟 Prenotazione: clicca qui
Don’t miss this unique opportunity to explore the fascinating world of Austrian wines!
Austria is a country that has successfully risen from a devastating crisis, transforming its wine industry into a model of excellence. Thanks to a combination of unique terroirs, strict quality standards, and a strong connection to tradition, Austrian wines are now among the most highly appreciated by connoisseurs.
If you want to deepen your knowledge and taste some of the finest Austrian wines, we look forward to welcoming you to the tasting in Empoli with Wine School Italia, with a glass of Grüner Veltliner in hand! 🍷
